Category Archives: Surf

I’m calling this the comeback

Almost two months to the date has past since the last time I surfed. Travels and some injuries has kept me away from the ocean for so long I forgot which leg to put the leg rope on. But today I decided to give it a go, the swell is small and there’s not much wind around so I wrapped my poor knee up really nice (so nice I lost feeling in my foot after 15 minutes). I forgot this passion of mine, which is a good thing I guess but man it was so nice to float around again. I could not stop smiling, I have now sore cheeks. There was this sour looking girl on the inside with me, she looked at me like I was some kind of mental case and it was like she forgot to squeeze the lemons in her hair and she ate them all instead (or maybe I just scared her). So I tried to tone my dorky smiling down but it just wouldn’t happen. So see you tomorrow dawn patrol, my good old friend πŸ˜‰

What I Wanted to Learn

She is so peaceful and always with a smile on her face. Nothing seems to bother her, she just does her own thing. I want to be more like her. I’m enjoying the ocean but something is off. There is this (old) guy out in the surf who seems so arrogant, he won’t smile and keeps snaking everyone and we’re just a handful of people out. When I head up to the point he does the same to me. Like it’s all there just for him, like he is a little bit more important than the rest of us. But she doesn’t care, just shrugs her shoulders and moves on with so much grace. I want to be like that to. But instead I get angry so angry and I loose my shit and yell out. It’s a few days later and I realize I have so much to be grateful for, there is no room for small stuff from old grumpy men.

I wish I knew then what I know now

It’s like a distant dream those months I spent in the village. I arrived on a Wednesday morning, it’s trickling rain and I feel I’m in a ghost town. There is no one around, nothing is open and I’m probably really hungry. Everyone is sleeping and I walk around ‘town’, seriously town is maybe just a street or two if you feel generous. I had no idea what was coming for me back then, what this sleepy village had in store for me, the lessons to learn and the love and kindness waiting to hit me straight in the heart.

Hello to you!

We just went to have a little peak at this second hand log and I didn’t like it so just stopped by pcc for a peak? Yeah that’s it just a peak. Hmmm this piece of art was sitting in the rack. Then she was calling my name ha ha take me hoooome, take me to the ocean. 9″2 Indonesian coca cola with a flower inlay. She’s to big to fit in the garage standing up and I need straps to carry her to the beach πŸ™‚

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Then comes Tuesday

Weekend crowds at my local beach. We escape it all by going south. South is always a good idea, but still all the weekenders was sharing the one break that was working within an hours drive. It’s alright the crowd is mellow, lot’s of surfing dads, mums and grommits. Just smiles and fun. Monday we had the wind coming for a short visit, it happens. Tuesday I wake up early, have my coffee giving the early dawn patrolers some time to get to work. I walk down the beach and my favorite peak has no one on it. No one. For maybe 30 minutes it’s just me and magic. It’s so clean and clear – we did not have any rain for a long time. I can see all the fishes swimming beneath me. Waves are small but fun, I can see straight through them when I’m playing on the face. I love this time of year it’s getting crisp, no wind and the water is still warm(ish).

Things I forgot about home

After nine months or so on the road I’m back in Sydney! Went for a walk to check the waves this morning and omg it’s more crowded than Kuta Beach or any Bali surf break for what looks like really average close out waves. The difference is that the surfers here can actually surf, ha ha πŸ™‚ I totally forgot about the weekend crowd though, there’s like a million of people in the water. ButΒ the ocean looks amazing, the water is so clear! No more murky river mouths for me. Also enjoying flushing toilets and hot showers, ha ha, it’s good to be back for summer, hope it heats up a bit to!

Girls surf trip to the jungle

I’m back in Indonesia (oh ja again) and last week me and this super awesome fantastic cool crew went for a surf trip to the jungle. Three girls, one rasta man, tropical waters, empty reef breaks, fun peeling waves with just us on it, camping in the jungle, trips to magic caves, nasi gorengs, mangoes and bloody white coffee. I’m so happy and all surfed out butΒ ready to go back again ha ha. I’ve had the time of my life πŸ™‚ Thank you Ulrikke, Silke and Maruf, you’re all legends let’s do it all again soon!

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