Category Archives: Surf

Hello to you!

We just went to have a little peak at this second hand log and I didn’t like it so just stopped by pcc for a peak? Yeah that’s it just a peak. Hmmm this piece of art was sitting in the rack. Then she was calling my name ha ha take me hoooome, take me to the ocean. 9″2 Indonesian coca cola with a flower inlay. She’s to big to fit in the garage standing up and I need straps to carry her to the beach ๐Ÿ™‚

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Then comes Tuesday

Weekend crowds at my local beach. We escape it all by going south. South is always a good idea, but still all the weekenders was sharing the one break that was working within an hours drive. It’s alright the crowd is mellow, lot’s of surfing dads, mums and grommits. Just smiles and fun. Monday we had the wind coming for a short visit, it happens. Tuesday I wake up early, have my coffee giving the early dawn patrolers some time to get to work. I walk down the beach and my favorite peak has no one on it. No one. For maybe 30 minutes it’s just me and magic. It’s so clean and clear – we did not have any rain for a long time. I can see all the fishes swimming beneath me. Waves are small but fun, I can see straight through them when I’m playing on the face. I love this time of year it’s getting crisp, no wind and the water is still warm(ish).

Things I forgot about home

After nine months or so on the road I’m back in Sydney! Went for a walk to check the waves this morning and omg it’s more crowded than Kuta Beach or any Bali surf break for what looks like really average close out waves. The difference is that the surfers here can actually surf, ha ha ๐Ÿ™‚ I totally forgot about the weekend crowd though, there’s like a million of people in the water. Butย the ocean looks amazing, the water is so clear! No more murky river mouths for me. Also enjoying flushing toilets and hot showers, ha ha, it’s good to be back for summer, hope it heats up a bit to!

Girls surf trip to the jungle

I’m back in Indonesia (oh ja again) and last week me and this super awesome fantastic cool crew went for a surf trip to the jungle. Three girls, one rasta man, tropical waters, empty reef breaks, fun peeling waves with just us on it, camping in the jungle, trips to magic caves, nasi gorengs, mangoes and bloody white coffee. I’m so happy and all surfed out butย ready to go back again ha ha. I’ve had the time of my life ๐Ÿ™‚ Thank you Ulrikke, Silke and Maruf, you’re all legends let’s do it all again soon!

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Some Swedish beauty

So after four months in Indonesia I’m back in Sweden for some catch ups and family time. Lucky me my hometown is right by the ocean with a small surf scene that never existed when I grew up here (or at least I never knew). But last night I got to enjoy some ocean time with one of my favourites.ย Pure Swedish bliss. I might have missed the summer here but they say September is the month for surf (before the ocean freezes :))

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surfing-sweden-sandhamn-gurfers-surf-sunset-8ย The old leach around the stairs trick got played on me.

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