Category Archives: Surf

Sometimes we have swell

but like right now it’s been so long since I’ve seen any movement in the ocean (except for rain drops) that I’m beginning to think it is just a lake that I keep staring at for some reason. So there was no options left but to pack the car with six girls, equal amount of surfboards, put on some tunes and head up north. We scored the cutest little guest house, good food and some fun sand banks to play on before we had to return. Now I’m back with my lake. Manifesting some waves. Still so very very happy, I had the best get away with these girls. So much love <3


There’s no tea left in the house.


Our guesthouse was like living in a vintage shop.


Somewhere in China town


All you need is love, Nora in China town


Alia and Norris… ehhhmmmm 🙂

When Mandy comes to the village

When does a joke get boring? Could it ever happen? Or does it just become more funny the more times you hear it? So yes Mandy is in the village and her name is Mandy. Nice name you might be thinking and you are very right. But yes what Mandy’s parents did not think about is that it’s the same as mandi in indonesian which translates to having a shower or a bath and this is where it becomes oh so funny… I now get to hear this amazing joke 10 times a day. “Mandy – sudah mandi? (translates to Mandy did you shower already)” or “Mandy – belum mandi? (or not yet)” and sometimes it gets really creative like “Hello Miss Shower” 🙂 I think that’s my favorite. And now I have to leave you guys because I’m going for a surf with my friend Miss Shower… I can see you smiling to!

I’m calling this the comeback

Almost two months to the date has past since the last time I surfed. Travels and some injuries has kept me away from the ocean for so long I forgot which leg to put the leg rope on. But today I decided to give it a go, the swell is small and there’s not much wind around so I wrapped my poor knee up really nice (so nice I lost feeling in my foot after 15 minutes). I forgot this passion of mine, which is a good thing I guess but man it was so nice to float around again. I could not stop smiling, I have now sore cheeks. There was this sour looking girl on the inside with me, she looked at me like I was some kind of mental case and it was like she forgot to squeeze the lemons in her hair and she ate them all instead (or maybe I just scared her). So I tried to tone my dorky smiling down but it just wouldn’t happen. So see you tomorrow dawn patrol, my good old friend 😉

What I Wanted to Learn

She is so peaceful and always with a smile on her face. Nothing seems to bother her, she just does her own thing. I want to be more like her. I’m enjoying the ocean but something is off. There is this (old) guy out in the surf who seems so arrogant, he won’t smile and keeps snaking everyone and we’re just a handful of people out. When I head up to the point he does the same to me. Like it’s all there just for him, like he is a little bit more important than the rest of us. But she doesn’t care, just shrugs her shoulders and moves on with so much grace. I want to be like that to. But instead I get angry so angry and I loose my shit and yell out. It’s a few days later and I realize I have so much to be grateful for, there is no room for small stuff from old grumpy men.

I wish I knew then what I know now

It’s like a distant dream those months I spent in the village. I arrived on a Wednesday morning, it’s trickling rain and I feel I’m in a ghost town. There is no one around, nothing is open and I’m probably really hungry. Everyone is sleeping and I walk around ‘town’, seriously town is maybe just a street or two if you feel generous. I had no idea what was coming for me back then, what this sleepy village had in store for me, the lessons to learn and the love and kindness waiting to hit me straight in the heart.

Hello to you!

We just went to have a little peak at this second hand log and I didn’t like it so just stopped by pcc for a peak? Yeah that’s it just a peak. Hmmm this piece of art was sitting in the rack. Then she was calling my name ha ha take me hoooome, take me to the ocean. 9″2 Indonesian coca cola with a flower inlay. She’s to big to fit in the garage standing up and I need straps to carry her to the beach 🙂

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Then comes Tuesday

Weekend crowds at my local beach. We escape it all by going south. South is always a good idea, but still all the weekenders was sharing the one break that was working within an hours drive. It’s alright the crowd is mellow, lot’s of surfing dads, mums and grommits. Just smiles and fun. Monday we had the wind coming for a short visit, it happens. Tuesday I wake up early, have my coffee giving the early dawn patrolers some time to get to work. I walk down the beach and my favorite peak has no one on it. No one. For maybe 30 minutes it’s just me and magic. It’s so clean and clear – we did not have any rain for a long time. I can see all the fishes swimming beneath me. Waves are small but fun, I can see straight through them when I’m playing on the face. I love this time of year it’s getting crisp, no wind and the water is still warm(ish).