I was to rushed with the feeling I wasn’t doing anything to 100% so I decided to leave that office job that took up most of my hours. Taking some time off to do what I enjoy. So heading back to Indonesia for some surf in a few weeks. And let’s see where to go from there 🙂
Back in Sydney it’s getting colder and darker and I’m just spending to much time in the office and there’s not enough daylight left. But then she comes the weekend – weekend warrior number one and two gets up just after 5. Load the van up with the last things and off we go. I know where I want to go, no need to check somewhere else this morning. I can feel it’s going to be good. And yes we’re slow, the drive takes three hours with a coffee stop or two. When we get there there’s no rush just 10 odd people out and the sun is starting to heat up. We get ready and then it’s two hours of fun in the sun, crisp cold but so much fun. It’s clean oh so clean – thank you south, you always deliver 🙂
Girls trip for the long weekend! Was magical one. I give you random car park hang outs, $1000 sunrise, few dolphins, amazing people, funny locals, to much coffee, lots of living! And I scored one of my best surfs in Australia I think – I’ll be back soon pretty little Island.
Tiny little NE swell with no wind and 30 degrees, perfect for the log and just nice to stay in the ocean because it’s summer weather. Few morning bumps and then had another session after work in Wanda for sunset, just fun 🙂 Love it!
Heaps fun this morning, same sand bank as yesterday, just a few people out. Mellow take off on the high tide into clean, long lefties!
All week has been Easterly – wind – swell so onshore so straight so closeout. This morning just light winds, South West, super glassy conditions, only 2 ppl (Saturday morning!) out one was me and the other one I can share waves with anytime. Thank you universe! (& Swellnet for the photo)
2 feet wind swell with strong south wind today so surf got cancelled in favor of yoga and some snorkeling in the bay. Looks like similar conditions for tomorrow so let’s see maybe sunrise paddle. Maybe not 🙂 Still happy about fun waves from last week.
Hello summer time, I’ve been waiting for you, yep I’m looking straight at yoooou! Thank you for bringing on the heat, yes have a look at me putting that seal skin some people call a wet suit way back in the closet. & even better I’m so stoked about this daylight hell yeah so I can squeeze in a surf before work and another one after if i feel like it. I’m pretty excited about the next months which is quite an understatement.
I stay on the beach with the camera 🙂 It’s amazing to watch though, biggest I’ve seen in a long long time.
Weekend crowds at my local beach. We escape it all by going south. South is always a good idea, but still all the weekenders was sharing the one break that was working within an hours drive. It’s alright the crowd is mellow, lot’s of surfing dads, mums and grommits. Just smiles and fun. Monday we had the wind coming for a short visit, it happens. Tuesday I wake up early, have my coffee giving the early dawn patrolers some time to get to work. I walk down the beach and my favorite peak has no one on it. No one. For maybe 30 minutes it’s just me and magic. It’s so clean and clear – we did not have any rain for a long time. I can see all the fishes swimming beneath me. Waves are small but fun, I can see straight through them when I’m playing on the face. I love this time of year it’s getting crisp, no wind and the water is still warm(ish).
Photos from yesterday in Cronulla. Fun waves for everyone. It’s school holidays so the grommits are having a blast. I’m just playing with our newish 400mm lens. Trying to recover from a sore neck. Again. Oh well.
Took out a demo board from PCC for a surf this morning, was it to much fun? Wondering if I need to keep it.
But surf this morning was heaps of fun 🙂 Little clean peaks all along the beach how I’ve missed you guys! The sky is grey but it keeps the wind away so I might have to go for a second session. I had one peak pretty much to myself for two hours – he he love days like this, just fun and easy 🙂
When the swell gave you a sore neck leaving you stuck on the beach for days. When you’ve made non ocean related plans for the next four days (seriously who does that). When your next trip to Indonesia is months away. Yep that’s when the surf itch kicks in – you all know the feeling right 🙂
It’s good to be me! Surf has been heaps fun last few days and the water is still so warm. I’m feeling very lucky, no need to travel anywhere at the moment, maybe few hours down the coast for the weekend to escape the crowd. I thought the swell would have dropped off but there’s just small pulses coming so it’s just fun 2-3 feet waves on the beaches!
Because this is where I live. I love summer over here – water is clear and warm – so very very amazing! Took the GoPro with me for sunrise today – quick edit below 🙂
Now that the days are getting longer and a lot lot LOT warmer, it time to get the gang and start playing in the water with the underwater camera ( Its been in hibernation since 1982 haha feels that long anyway). So i got the gang together (anyone that would come with me) and off we went. When we where there we made friends with a cool little dude called Mitchell who ended up taking the best photos of the day, NICE WORK MITCH !!!! Here’s what happened (see photos below)
The Nole Master Looking all sexy with his goggles 🙂
This is me trying to blow bubbles
Sara, Nole, and PAX
Mitchell falling from the sky This is Nole talking with GOD in a nice ray of orange sunlight
The next 4 photos are taken of me (PAX) by my new friend Mitchell Love them all great JoB !! 🙂 Falling from the sky about to hit the water in about 1 sec HELPPPPP
High Flyer !@#$%^&*()(*&^%$#@!@#$%^&*()*&^%$#$%^& After a long day in the water its time to hit the road and go find some food.. Thanks to the gang from a cool day out !!!!
Not much going on the last few weeks. I’ve been away for work and now it’s almost December – end of the year… We had a nice visit from the Gold Coast over the weekend – Kumi came down so we went for a drive. Not to many waves around but ocean is getting warmer and it was so hot on Sunday so nice for a paddle 🙂 I got a wrist strap for the GoPro and figured I’d take it for a try – it’s a bit to big for me but worked alright. Let’s see if I can get a wave with it next time 🙂
I’m pretty sure I’m suffering from some sort of post holiday trauma by being back in the office and not eating enough nasi goreng…
So Friday at 5:15 PM – here’s my pick up!
Heading south on the M1 – just flying through traffic and watching the sun go down.
Woke up to this, photo’s might not show it but the Golf Course looked pretty much the best I’ve ever seen it. Just that there was a bloody longboard competition on so we decided to keep looking for waves.
To messy/small/windy/wrong swell direction/ugly/not feeling it – you name it – we found it.
So back to the drawing board = keep on heading south…
We probably would have paddled out here but then skippy said locals only and scratched his nose and I’m not sure what that means so back on the road. Again.
This looks like a brand new spot for us – and only two people out? We would have paddled out here if it wasn’t to crowded?
Here we go – did not find waves but Noel, Billy & Takea!
& this guy wanted to join to…
So now it looks like we might have found some surf but not to sure, so just doing some board drumming…
Really looks like we’ve found something?
Oh yes when in doubt – let’s surf the pond!
(Actually we did surf and I borrowed Noels mini-mal and I had about a million fun waves so now I feel like I have to buy a long board. Like a 9 feet log. But with that comes a logistic issue since someone is very against having roof racks on top of the VW. )
Here we go finally on our way, see you later Sydney can’t wait to wake up in Bali tomorrow 🙂 We’re already at the airport in Sydney, early enough to have a few drinks. Both of us “randomly” screened for bombs and drugs as usual. And I’ve got some dollars back (the VAT) for leaving with my new surf board. Puss Puss
Pax taking the fins off, it’s really quick and easy if you have FCS 2 fins… If you don’t you shouldn’t pull them out, you have to screw… just saying. It’s not like anyone tried that this morning, no.