The vegan groups on Facebook that I’m in are talking about the new dairy free Magnums, that’s the latest and greatest happening in the vegan community for months. I don’t know when I had an ice cream the last time but I don’t care to much. I’m just busy enjoying this monsoon village, well it’s a monsoon without rain or very little of it this season. But the wave is small and fun. Like always. Good for logging they say. Good for the soul. Grateful to be here.
Category Archives: dawn patrol
OUUUPS – I DID IT AGAIN
I was to rushed with the feeling I wasn’t doing anything to 100% so I decided to leave that office job that took up most of my hours. Taking some time off to do what I enjoy. So heading back to Indonesia for some surf in a few weeks. And let’s see where to go from there 🙂
The South and Me
Back in Sydney it’s getting colder and darker and I’m just spending to much time in the office and there’s not enough daylight left. But then she comes the weekend – weekend warrior number one and two gets up just after 5. Load the van up with the last things and off we go. I know where I want to go, no need to check somewhere else this morning. I can feel it’s going to be good. And yes we’re slow, the drive takes three hours with a coffee stop or two. When we get there there’s no rush just 10 odd people out and the sun is starting to heat up. We get ready and then it’s two hours of fun in the sun, crisp cold but so much fun. It’s clean oh so clean – thank you south, you always deliver 🙂
Should never have left the Island
Aduh scored her again! I’m so happy – yesterday was fuuuun on south coast 🙂 Not like last weekend but still fun waves, had to wait a bit for the set but when they came long peeling and glassy. Watching the moon go down and sun come up. MAGIC. Life is amazing when you’re actually living it. Then coffee and more surf. Decided to head back home early, I’m covered in a sea lice rash looks like I’ve got chickenpox.
Maybe I fell in love with the Island
Girls trip for the long weekend! Was magical one. I give you random car park hang outs, $1000 sunrise, few dolphins, amazing people, funny locals, to much coffee, lots of living! And I scored one of my best surfs in Australia I think – I’ll be back soon pretty little Island.
Starting the week of x 2
Tiny little NE swell with no wind and 30 degrees, perfect for the log and just nice to stay in the ocean because it’s summer weather. Few morning bumps and then had another session after work in Wanda for sunset, just fun 🙂 Love it!
Dawn Patrol – 2 FT NE, WIND N
Heaps fun this morning, same sand bank as yesterday, just a few people out. Mellow take off on the high tide into clean, long lefties!
Best surf of the year so far :)
All week has been Easterly – wind – swell so onshore so straight so closeout. This morning just light winds, South West, super glassy conditions, only 2 ppl (Saturday morning!) out one was me and the other one I can share waves with anytime. Thank you universe! (& Swellnet for the photo)