I was to rushed with the feeling I wasn’t doing anything to 100% so I decided to leave that office job that took up most of my hours. Taking some time off to do what I enjoy. So heading back to Indonesia for some surf in a few weeks. And let’s see where to go from there 🙂
Back in Sydney it’s getting colder and darker and I’m just spending to much time in the office and there’s not enough daylight left. But then she comes the weekend – weekend warrior number one and two gets up just after 5. Load the van up with the last things and off we go. I know where I want to go, no need to check somewhere else this morning. I can feel it’s going to be good. And yes we’re slow, the drive takes three hours with a coffee stop or two. When we get there there’s no rush just 10 odd people out and the sun is starting to heat up. We get ready and then it’s two hours of fun in the sun, crisp cold but so much fun. It’s clean oh so clean – thank you south, you always deliver 🙂
I always come back it’s way to good not to. Easter holidays this time, I’ve surfed so much the last two weeks. It’s been so good I’m grateful for all the waves, sunrises, creativity, laughs, the people, new and old friends. Surfing in torrential rain and heavy thunderstorms. Waking up in the middle of the night by a shaking earth. Being so close to nature. The rhythm of live. Practicing yoga on my porch in the tropics, body and muscles so warm. Aduh! Thank you universe! Landed back in Sydney this morning feeling I’m in a bubble.
Sydney has been so wet this week, been pouring down with rain and still is. Hello Autumn – I’m waiting for your clean conditions. So I’m watching the Australian Open in surfing just the live stream online not keen enough to get out. Happy Saturday! Swell is big and Sally Fitzgibbons just made it through to quarter finals in Manly. I might have to make my way across the bridge for finals day tomorrow.
Aduh scored her again! I’m so happy – yesterday was fuuuun on south coast 🙂 Not like last weekend but still fun waves, had to wait a bit for the set but when they came long peeling and glassy. Watching the moon go down and sun come up. MAGIC. Life is amazing when you’re actually living it. Then coffee and more surf. Decided to head back home early, I’m covered in a sea lice rash looks like I’ve got chickenpox.
Girls trip for the long weekend! Was magical one. I give you random car park hang outs, $1000 sunrise, few dolphins, amazing people, funny locals, to much coffee, lots of living! And I scored one of my best surfs in Australia I think – I’ll be back soon pretty little Island.
Tiny little NE swell with no wind and 30 degrees, perfect for the log and just nice to stay in the ocean because it’s summer weather. Few morning bumps and then had another session after work in Wanda for sunset, just fun 🙂 Love it!
Heaps fun this morning, same sand bank as yesterday, just a few people out. Mellow take off on the high tide into clean, long lefties!
All week has been Easterly – wind – swell so onshore so straight so closeout. This morning just light winds, South West, super glassy conditions, only 2 ppl (Saturday morning!) out one was me and the other one I can share waves with anytime. Thank you universe! (& Swellnet for the photo)
2 feet wind swell with strong south wind today so surf got cancelled in favor of yoga and some snorkeling in the bay. Looks like similar conditions for tomorrow so let’s see maybe sunrise paddle. Maybe not 🙂 Still happy about fun waves from last week.
Finished 2016 off with a week on the south coast, we scored it so so good this time with fun, clean and uncrowded sessions. Kumi came down for a few days, we did heaps of outdoor cooking & just surfing – aduh! Love life on the road, feel inspired for the year ahead. Happy new year bloggy!
Hello summer time, I’ve been waiting for you, yep I’m looking straight at yoooou! Thank you for bringing on the heat, yes have a look at me putting that seal skin some people call a wet suit way back in the closet. & even better I’m so stoked about this daylight hell yeah so I can squeeze in a surf before work and another one after if i feel like it. I’m pretty excited about the next months which is quite an understatement.
Crisp clean waves from a few weeks ago. I have logistic issues with the log he he, I almost knocked some poor people over the other day trying to walk to the beach. Other than that just pure magic. Me & Pax took turns with the log and water housing, I think I got the money shot of Pax above hey, enjoy 🙂
We just went to have a little peak at this second hand log and I didn’t like it so just stopped by pcc for a peak? Yeah that’s it just a peak. Hmmm this piece of art was sitting in the rack. Then she was calling my name ha ha take me hoooome, take me to the ocean. 9″2 Indonesian coca cola with a flower inlay. She’s to big to fit in the garage standing up and I need straps to carry her to the beach 🙂
It’s that time a year again 🙂
I stay on the beach with the camera 🙂 It’s amazing to watch though, biggest I’ve seen in a long long time.
Weekend crowds at my local beach. We escape it all by going south. South is always a good idea, but still all the weekenders was sharing the one break that was working within an hours drive. It’s alright the crowd is mellow, lot’s of surfing dads, mums and grommits. Just smiles and fun. Monday we had the wind coming for a short visit, it happens. Tuesday I wake up early, have my coffee giving the early dawn patrolers some time to get to work. I walk down the beach and my favorite peak has no one on it. No one. For maybe 30 minutes it’s just me and magic. It’s so clean and clear – we did not have any rain for a long time. I can see all the fishes swimming beneath me. Waves are small but fun, I can see straight through them when I’m playing on the face. I love this time of year it’s getting crisp, no wind and the water is still warm(ish).
Photos from yesterday in Cronulla. Fun waves for everyone. It’s school holidays so the grommits are having a blast. I’m just playing with our newish 400mm lens. Trying to recover from a sore neck. Again. Oh well.
Took out a demo board from PCC for a surf this morning, was it to much fun? Wondering if I need to keep it.
But surf this morning was heaps of fun 🙂 Little clean peaks all along the beach how I’ve missed you guys! The sky is grey but it keeps the wind away so I might have to go for a second session. I had one peak pretty much to myself for two hours – he he love days like this, just fun and easy 🙂