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The South and Me

Back in Sydney it’s getting colder and darker and I’m just spending to much time in the office and there’s not enough daylight left. But then she comes the weekend – weekend warrior number one and two gets up just after 5. Load the van up with the last things and off we go. I know where I want to go, no need to check somewhere else this morning. I can feel it’s going to be good. And yes we’re slow, the drive takes three hours with a coffee stop or two. When we get there there’s no rush just 10 odd people out and the sun is starting to heat up. We get ready and then it’s two hours of fun in the sun, crisp cold but so much fun. It’s clean oh so clean – thank you south, you always deliver 🙂

Indo <3 love - Part 389

I always come back it’s way to good not to. Easter holidays this time, I’ve surfed so much the last two weeks. It’s been so good I’m grateful for all the waves, sunrises, creativity, laughs, the people, new and old friends. Surfing in torrential rain and heavy thunderstorms. Waking up in the middle of the night by a shaking earth. Being so close to nature. The rhythm of live. Practicing yoga on my porch in the tropics, body and muscles so warm. Aduh! Thank you universe! Landed back in Sydney this morning feeling I’m in a bubble.

At the Australian Open – But not really

Sydney has been so wet this week, been pouring down with rain and still is. Hello Autumn – I’m waiting for your clean conditions. So I’m watching the Australian Open in surfing just the live stream online not keen enough to get out. Happy Saturday! Swell is big and Sally Fitzgibbons just made it through to quarter finals in Manly. I might have to make my way across the bridge for finals day tomorrow.

Should never have left the Island

Aduh scored her again! I’m so happy – yesterday was fuuuun on south coast 🙂 Not like last weekend but still fun waves, had to wait a bit for the set but when they came long peeling and glassy. Watching the moon go down and sun come up. MAGIC. Life is amazing when you’re actually living it. Then coffee and more surf. Decided to head back home early, I’m covered in a sea lice rash looks like I’ve got chickenpox.

An open letter to you summer

Hello summer time, I’ve been waiting for you, yep I’m looking straight at yoooou! Thank you for bringing on the heat, yes have a look at me putting that seal skin some people call a wet suit way back in the closet. & even better I’m so stoked about this daylight hell yeah so I can squeeze in a surf before work and another one after if i feel like it. I’m pretty excited about the next months which is quite an understatement.

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Hello to you!

We just went to have a little peak at this second hand log and I didn’t like it so just stopped by pcc for a peak? Yeah that’s it just a peak. Hmmm this piece of art was sitting in the rack. Then she was calling my name ha ha take me hoooome, take me to the ocean. 9″2 Indonesian coca cola with a flower inlay. She’s to big to fit in the garage standing up and I need straps to carry her to the beach 🙂

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Then comes Tuesday

Weekend crowds at my local beach. We escape it all by going south. South is always a good idea, but still all the weekenders was sharing the one break that was working within an hours drive. It’s alright the crowd is mellow, lot’s of surfing dads, mums and grommits. Just smiles and fun. Monday we had the wind coming for a short visit, it happens. Tuesday I wake up early, have my coffee giving the early dawn patrolers some time to get to work. I walk down the beach and my favorite peak has no one on it. No one. For maybe 30 minutes it’s just me and magic. It’s so clean and clear – we did not have any rain for a long time. I can see all the fishes swimming beneath me. Waves are small but fun, I can see straight through them when I’m playing on the face. I love this time of year it’s getting crisp, no wind and the water is still warm(ish).