She is so peaceful and always with a smile on her face. Nothing seems to bother her, she just does her own thing. I want to be more like her. I’m enjoying the ocean but something is off. There is this (old) guy out in the surf who seems so arrogant, he won’t smile and keeps snaking everyone and we’re just a handful of people out. When I head up to the point he does the same to me. Like it’s all there just for him, like he is a little bit more important than the rest of us. But she doesn’t care, just shrugs her shoulders and moves on with so much grace. I want to be like that to. But instead I get angry so angry and I loose my shit and yell out. It’s a few days later and I realize I have so much to be grateful for, there is no room for small stuff from old grumpy men.
Tag Archives: Ocean
Surfing With Sylvain
Over the last 8 days i have had to stay out of the water, thats right no surfing for me. I cut my foot & the salt water loves to stop it from healing up. So I had to take a long wait out of the water to let it heal. The good news is I got to do some yoga (try to do yoga alone Hmmmm) and take photos of everyone surf, witch I loved doing anyway so not that bad really. We had Sylvain staying with us at our guest house but I never got to surf with him till last night. It was his last night with us and I thought it would be nice to try out my foot and surf with our new friend. Sara took the night off surfing and took control of the camera. We had a great surf and Sara took some amazing photos of us <3 …
From where I’d rather be
Winter over here’s just started, it’s not winter like back in Sweden with minus 22 degrees and snow but still I’m freezing, they’ve forgotten about isolation and things like that over here… In our unit it’s colder than outside I’m pretty sure.
I’ve brought out my winter booties from the closet for yesterdays surf, the water is not that bad just the bloody wind makes it so chilly. I miss tropical waters, bikini surfs, nasi goreng, pocari sweat. Some photos from Bali below, it’s been way to long now. It used to be like my second home and now I haven’t been over for more than a year…
Surf report from the weekend
Not really sure what is happening with time but it’s going quick, and it’s getting so dark now. To dark to surf in the morning and you have to be super quick to sneak in an after work surf in the week. We’re changing the clocks here in Sydney on Sunday so it will be better in the mornings for a bit. But we can really tell we’re going into winter over here. We had a few waves on Sunday, yours truly thought it looked to windy and crappy but had some fun once I got in. Anyways almost weekend again, we’re going north for a change, to Forster to cheer on Snoop in a triathlon and hopefully some waves and maybe some pies to, who knows!
