I always come back it’s way to good not to. Easter holidays this time, I’ve surfed so much the last two weeks. It’s been so good I’m grateful for all the waves, sunrises, creativity, laughs, the people, new and old friends. Surfing in torrential rain and heavy thunderstorms. Waking up in the middle of the night by a shaking earth. Being so close to nature. The rhythm of live. Practicing yoga on my porch in the tropics, body and muscles so warm. Aduh! Thank you universe! Landed back in Sydney this morning feeling I’m in a bubble.
Aduh! I’ve been dawn patrolling my local beach lots lately but always in my heart I miss this one 🙂
I’m back in Indonesia (oh ja again) and last week me and this super awesome fantastic cool crew went for a surf trip to the jungle. Three girls, one rasta man, tropical waters, empty reef breaks, fun peeling waves with just us on it, camping in the jungle, trips to magic caves, nasi gorengs, mangoes and bloody white coffee. I’m so happy and all surfed out but ready to go back again ha ha. I’ve had the time of my life 🙂 Thank you Ulrikke, Silke and Maruf, you’re all legends let’s do it all again soon!
Some go pro clips from earlier this year. Will be more of this soon – tomorrow I leave for Indonesia (again). Hello tropical water.
So Pax is away doing family things in New Zealand while I have a very awesome super cool visit from Sydney – Sofia is here enjoying some tropical waters, chillaxing, waves and gado-gados.
Some fun waves with the girls this morning 🙂
We are have moved to a cool little town somewhere in Java, we love it so much we’ll keep it a secret for a another week or three (HAHA). The cool thing is the place we are staying with with a little surfboard factory out the back of it. They just happened to be doing the fiber glass on one of their boards and lets us take photos. They made it look so easy, but i know it would be way harder then it looks . A big thanks to Keona shapes for letting us take the photos 🙂
Took the scooty for a trip to Watu Karung to have a coffee and look at the waves (Watu Karung is the spot for the surfers that’s on the pro tour (the wanna be pro tour), it’s a heavy barrel on a reef and we have some swell so thought it would be good to have a look). So we get there and there’s just one girl out there while the rest of the pro’s are sitting at the little warung having coffee contemplating about maybe going out 🙂 Then another girl paddles out and her first wave is a double barrel – we love watching the girls rip! After that the pro’s got their act together and made a move for the waves.
What do you do when you have to catch are ride in Indonesia, but you don’t know what time they are picking you up, and the only instruction you have are to wait outside a hotel from 5pm till they come ??????????? You work the street with you camera. This is what I shot in the hour we had to wait, I could only move about 2 meters from our bags, so was happy to get some cool fun shots 🙂
No more mellow rights for us – we decided to make a move and ended up in Pacitan. I’ve been tricked back into surfing left waves again it seems but who cares when it’s this much fun? Just me and one more guy out this morning – I’m so stoked 🙂 Pax is stuck on the beach until tomorrow because of an ear infection…aduhhh what to do. We got some antibiotics and painkillers from the doctor in Cijulang but the ear was to swollen to look into but hopefully we’ll get it sorted here tomorrow.
After the green canyon we jumped on the scooters and hit the road for about 30 minuets to find the green valley (easy when you have a guide). But first things first FOOD FOOD FOOD. A little lunch stop and everyone started to feel a lot more happier, even our guide started to talk & move his hangover must have started to get a little bit better. The green Valley is a very cool place, it has a big cave that you can swim into that gets very dark, so dark you (ME) might get a little scared if you swim in to fare. There is also some tree roots you can climb up to ledge, that you can jump from if you like that kind of thing.. If you don’t think the green valley is that cool I have saved the best till last. It has a waterfall that you can jump off, then you can swim under the waterfall into a little cave, just like in the movies. On the way home we stopped for a photo or 10 but to top it all off we got to go over a bamboo bridge, that can only hold one scooter at a time. So i was hopping all the pancakes I have been eating was not going to make me to heavy and make us end up in the river…
FOOD FOOD FOOD The guide alive at last The cave and the jump spot
Inside the cave
The waterfall from the top The bottom
Inside the waterfall
The jump rope Road trippers 1 & 2 The bamboo bridge The home stretch thank god – It was a long day 🙂 🙂 🙂
Today we tried to be like most tourists and do a day trip. So we got a little gang together and our new local friend & guide for the day to show us round. First stop was the corner cafe to get a second breakfast as 50% on the gang stayed up way to late having drinks with our guide, who was now so hangover that I think he needed to die or at lest sleep for 3 days… So after a late start we hit the road to our first stop the green canyon. To get to the canyon you need to get a boat for about 30 minutes its a nice chilled ride up the river, then you need to park the boat & pay extra, so you can swim and explore the canyon, but its worth it. The boat ride was awesome but exploring the canyon was amazing ..
The Gang almost ready to roll 🙂 ZzzzzZzzZzzzz
Jumping from the rock was cool, I don’t why, but the rock is super smooth not like any of the other rocks in the canyon. There is a very small water fall, that falls onto the rock so i think there mast be something in the water, but thats just my guess 🙂 Look over there its a another tourist …….. Our guide sleeping we took about 10 photos before we woke him up. He was looking all Zen, but I think it was just his hangover working overtime ……
Swell – check. Current – check. Arms almost falling off – check. Some photos from tonight, this waves is so nice and mellow (lot of longboarders) but then the inside section sort of walls up faster and then if there’s some swell around you can surf it to the next bay which some of these guys been doing tonight.
We have been here in Batu Karas for about 2 weeks and I was starting to get a little over it. There has been no waves and then when the waves came there was a surf comp on grrrrr. I was thinking what to do then Lisa (legend) one of the ozzy girls we meet let me take out her longboard. It took about 3-4 waves to get the hang of it and then I started having fun fun fun.. The next day off I went to rent a longboard for the week, there was a lot of people dropping in (Sara was even one) but I still got a wave or 3 on my WMD (9.4 longboard). Here are some of the photos from my afternoon surf on my newly rented longboard with a Gopro mount haha lucky we have a Gopro ready for action..
Almost losing my head to someone not holding on to there board…
Getting a little drop in LOvE by SaRa (Girls first) haha x
Got up before the sun today to get a surf in before the local surf competition kicked off. Rolled out of bed and into the ocean. Aduhhh the waves where the best we had here so far – I had one of my best rights ever – I’m so stoked 🙂
We’ve been in Indonesia for bit over a week now. Spent a few days in Bali eating to much good food and then decided to head over to Java. So now we been in smallish fishing/resort village Batu Karas for a week or so. This place has such a nice vibe and feel to it, everyone is super duper friendly, the place is beautiful, the water is so clear, the food is oh so good – so here’s the catch… ther’s been no waves whatsoever since we got here pretty much, I think Sri Lanka spoiled us a bit with nice waves everyday. Yesterday there was some bumps around but that’s the day we picked to do our visa extension (of course) so no waves for us. Today finally we had some little bumps.
How good is it to surf on my front side 🙂
Pax rented a longboard trying to get on the small waves
Our Belgian friend got caught on a wave
Right right right