She is so peaceful and always with a smile on her face. Nothing seems to bother her, she just does her own thing. I want to be more like her. I’m enjoying the ocean but something is off. There is this (old) guy out in the surf who seems so arrogant, he won’t smile and keeps snaking everyone and we’re just a handful of people out. When I head up to the point he does the same to me. Like it’s all there just for him, like he is a little bit more important than the rest of us. But she doesn’t care, just shrugs her shoulders and moves on with so much grace. I want to be like that to. But instead I get angry so angry and I loose my shit and yell out. It’s a few days later and I realize I have so much to be grateful for, there is no room for small stuff from old grumpy men.
It was so bright when I woke up today and I couldn’t figure out why. Maybe the first light is just earlier and earlier I thought. Then I paddled around the corner and looked back at the full moon sitting high up shining so bright. Small pieces of nature, 10/10 and won’t cost anything. Happy me, today will be a good day 😉
Aduh! I’ve been dawn patrolling my local beach lots lately but always in my heart I miss this one 🙂
We just went to have a little peak at this second hand log and I didn’t like it so just stopped by pcc for a peak? Yeah that’s it just a peak. Hmmm this piece of art was sitting in the rack. Then she was calling my name ha ha take me hoooome, take me to the ocean. 9″2 Indonesian coca cola with a flower inlay. She’s to big to fit in the garage standing up and I need straps to carry her to the beach 🙂
I stay on the beach with the camera 🙂 It’s amazing to watch though, biggest I’ve seen in a long long time.
But surf this morning was heaps of fun 🙂 Little clean peaks all along the beach how I’ve missed you guys! The sky is grey but it keeps the wind away so I might have to go for a second session. I had one peak pretty much to myself for two hours – he he love days like this, just fun and easy 🙂
It’s good to be me! Surf has been heaps fun last few days and the water is still so warm. I’m feeling very lucky, no need to travel anywhere at the moment, maybe few hours down the coast for the weekend to escape the crowd. I thought the swell would have dropped off but there’s just small pulses coming so it’s just fun 2-3 feet waves on the beaches!
Because this is where I live. I love summer over here – water is clear and warm – so very very amazing! Took the GoPro with me for sunrise today – quick edit below 🙂
Some go pro clips from earlier this year. Will be more of this soon – tomorrow I leave for Indonesia (again). Hello tropical water.
Some wind. Some waves. Quick sunset session in Sandhamn last night before it got to cold in a 2/3 wettie 🙂
So after four months in Indonesia I’m back in Sweden for some catch ups and family time. Lucky me my hometown is right by the ocean with a small surf scene that never existed when I grew up here (or at least I never knew). But last night I got to enjoy some ocean time with one of my favourites. Pure Swedish bliss. I might have missed the summer here but they say September is the month for surf (before the ocean freezes :))
The old leach around the stairs trick got played on me.
Some fun waves with the girls this morning 🙂
Got some fun waves on my boy Portas on our last day in Medewi. We had it all to ourselves for about 40min, till the pro tour come out (haha).. The last 2 days were the best super fun and bigger but today was the only day we got photos 🙂 IT was fun surfing with the Ports over the week, next time i hope we have a month or two … 🙂
Got a little over confident the late take off 🙁
Some pics from last weekends swell below. There’s supposed to be the biggest swell since 2013 hitting Indonesia over the weekend, should be interesting 🙂
Took the scooty for a trip to Watu Karung to have a coffee and look at the waves (Watu Karung is the spot for the surfers that’s on the pro tour (the wanna be pro tour), it’s a heavy barrel on a reef and we have some swell so thought it would be good to have a look). So we get there and there’s just one girl out there while the rest of the pro’s are sitting at the little warung having coffee contemplating about maybe going out 🙂 Then another girl paddles out and her first wave is a double barrel – we love watching the girls rip! After that the pro’s got their act together and made a move for the waves.
Swell – check. Current – check. Arms almost falling off – check. Some photos from tonight, this waves is so nice and mellow (lot of longboarders) but then the inside section sort of walls up faster and then if there’s some swell around you can surf it to the next bay which some of these guys been doing tonight.
Got up before the sun today to get a surf in before the local surf competition kicked off. Rolled out of bed and into the ocean. Aduhhh the waves where the best we had here so far – I had one of my best rights ever – I’m so stoked 🙂