I’m calling this the comeback

Almost two months to the date has past since the last time I surfed. Travels and some injuries has kept me away from the ocean for so long I forgot which leg to put the leg rope on. But today I decided to give it a go, the swell is small and there’s not much wind around so I wrapped my poor knee up really nice (so nice I lost feeling in my foot after 15 minutes). I forgot this passion of mine, which is a good thing I guess but man it was so nice to float around again. I could not stop smiling, I have now sore cheeks. There was this sour looking girl on the inside with me, she looked at me like I was some kind of mental case and it was like she forgot to squeeze the lemons in her hair and she ate them all instead (or maybe I just scared her). So I tried to tone my dorky smiling down but it just wouldn’t happen. So see you tomorrow dawn patrol, my good old friend 😉

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *