Almost two months to the date has past since the last time I surfed. Travels and some injuries has kept me away from the ocean for so long I forgot which leg to put the leg rope on. But today I decided to give it a go, the swell is small and there’s not much wind around so I wrapped my poor knee up really nice (so nice I lost feeling in my foot after 15 minutes). I forgot this passion of mine, which is a good thing I guess but man it was so nice to float around again. I could not stop smiling, I have now sore cheeks. There was this sour looking girl on the inside with me, she looked at me like I was some kind of mental case and it was like she forgot to squeeze the lemons in her hair and she ate them all instead (or maybe I just scared her). So I tried to tone my dorky smiling down but it just wouldn’t happen. So see you tomorrow dawn patrol, my good old friend 😉
Sydney has been so wet this week, been pouring down with rain and still is. Hello Autumn – I’m waiting for your clean conditions. So I’m watching the Australian Open in surfing just the live stream online not keen enough to get out. Happy Saturday! Swell is big and Sally Fitzgibbons just made it through to quarter finals in Manly. I might have to make my way across the bridge for finals day tomorrow.
It’s good to be me! Surf has been heaps fun last few days and the water is still so warm. I’m feeling very lucky, no need to travel anywhere at the moment, maybe few hours down the coast for the weekend to escape the crowd. I thought the swell would have dropped off but there’s just small pulses coming so it’s just fun 2-3 feet waves on the beaches!
I’m back in Indonesia (oh ja again) and last week me and this super awesome fantastic cool crew went for a surf trip to the jungle. Three girls, one rasta man, tropical waters, empty reef breaks, fun peeling waves with just us on it, camping in the jungle, trips to magic caves, nasi gorengs, mangoes and bloody white coffee. I’m so happy and all surfed out but ready to go back again ha ha. I’ve had the time of my life 🙂 Thank you Ulrikke, Silke and Maruf, you’re all legends let’s do it all again soon!
So Pax is away doing family things in New Zealand while I have a very awesome super cool visit from Sydney – Sofia is here enjoying some tropical waters, chillaxing, waves and gado-gados.
Got some fun waves on my boy Portas on our last day in Medewi. We had it all to ourselves for about 40min, till the pro tour come out (haha).. The last 2 days were the best super fun and bigger but today was the only day we got photos 🙂 IT was fun surfing with the Ports over the week, next time i hope we have a month or two … 🙂
Got a little over confident the late take off 🙁
No more mellow rights for us – we decided to make a move and ended up in Pacitan. I’ve been tricked back into surfing left waves again it seems but who cares when it’s this much fun? Just me and one more guy out this morning – I’m so stoked 🙂 Pax is stuck on the beach until tomorrow because of an ear infection…aduhhh what to do. We got some antibiotics and painkillers from the doctor in Cijulang but the ear was to swollen to look into but hopefully we’ll get it sorted here tomorrow.
Over the last 8 days i have had to stay out of the water, thats right no surfing for me. I cut my foot & the salt water loves to stop it from healing up. So I had to take a long wait out of the water to let it heal. The good news is I got to do some yoga (try to do yoga alone Hmmmm) and take photos of everyone surf, witch I loved doing anyway so not that bad really. We had Sylvain staying with us at our guest house but I never got to surf with him till last night. It was his last night with us and I thought it would be nice to try out my foot and surf with our new friend. Sara took the night off surfing and took control of the camera. We had a great surf and Sara took some amazing photos of us <3 …
Pax is on day four or so of not surfing which means I’ve got myself a professional surf photographer for only 15 LKR per hour (that would be like 15 cents). Labour day and all it came with hard work this morning though – low tide and two swells in the mix made it peaky and that pink board spent a lot of time surfing around without me. Still I was the first one out this morning having a few fun ones before the rest of the small crowd decided to paddle out.
This guy showing how it’s done on his single fin.
Spending some quality time in the washing machine…
I’m in love with this island – the people are just so friendly, the waves are awesome and the curries are amazing. So tomorrow we’re going to Colombo for our visa extension. Some photos from further down south yesterday.
We’re having a really nice visit from parts of the Westin family – we seem to be in the same places at the same times spread out over the world. So when in Sri Lanka we went surfing 🙂 Welligama is a 10 minute tuk tuk ride away from us, has some fun waves to surf and you can rent boards just on the beach. Said and done – I had so much fun in the water with these two 🙂 Let’s do it all again tomorrow!
Been having so much fun in the water the last week, my shoulders are sore my back hurts and I’m all surfed out – it’s such a good feeling. We’re having maybe 2-4 feet of swell since we’ve been here which is perfect – and ohhh did I mention the water is tropical and there’s big turtles popping up for air every now and then – a m a z i n g. Pax got some cuts from the reef and decided to dry them out and take some snaps of me and Mikey a few days ago.
Hmm someone told us there would be waves here 🙂
Found one or three with the Mikey Viv & Sara
Mikey killing it on my 5’11 Fatito don’t know if he’ll give it back next time he get’s his hands on it, he got all the fun one’s that day GRRRRRRR…… Went to the Dewmini Roti Shop for some great food, i could have eaten there all day. If you are in Mirssa you need to go if you will regret it !!!!! Sara & me with happy bellys
This is that happens when you drink with the cazyz all afternoon, you end up doing a drunken photoshoot 🙂
Did you watch it? I think I’ve said it before, I’m not a big sport fan at all. I’ve manage to surprise myself – I’ve been watching the asp women’s pro surf tour religiously this year! This morning I got back from my yoga class and was sitting down with my breekie just to find out that the event was back on and that Courtney Conolouge knocked out Stephanie Gilmore in the Quater finals and before I had time to finished my coffee Bianca Buitentag won over Sally Fitzgibbons in the third quarter final! The president of the Sally fan club on Croydon Street (me) felt a bit down but hey that left only Tyler Wright that could take the title from Stephanie Gilmore in a surf off (meaning Tyler would have to win the event) Ha ha it’s been such a nail biting morning and all the girls have been surfing so amazingly! Ah what an inspiration. So congratulations to Carissa Moore to the win and Steph to her sixth world title!
& me I just really want some small fun waves for the weekend 🙂
Friday after work we went to pick up this little thing from our friends at PCC surfboards in Cronulla.
I’m soooo stoked, finally I have a surfboard again and she’s custom made just for me. So Saturday morning we packed the van up and headed for the coast – me pretty keen to find some waves to say the least. Brought some friends along and decided to paddle out at the beach break in Bendalong, it was a bit windy and bumpy but fun. Spent the rest of the weekend around Green Island, surfing, eating, chilling and that – such a hard life 🙂
“I’ve seen it/them/that somewhere around here” – Pax is making coffee for the weekend crew.