I was to rushed with the feeling I wasn’t doing anything to 100% so I decided to leave that office job that took up most of my hours. Taking some time off to do what I enjoy. So heading back to Indonesia for some surf in a few weeks. And let’s see where to go from there 🙂
Heaps fun this morning, same sand bank as yesterday, just a few people out. Mellow take off on the high tide into clean, long lefties!
When the swell gave you a sore neck leaving you stuck on the beach for days. When you’ve made non ocean related plans for the next four days (seriously who does that). When your next trip to Indonesia is months away. Yep that’s when the surf itch kicks in – you all know the feeling right 🙂
So after four months in Indonesia I’m back in Sweden for some catch ups and family time. Lucky me my hometown is right by the ocean with a small surf scene that never existed when I grew up here (or at least I never knew). But last night I got to enjoy some ocean time with one of my favourites. Pure Swedish bliss. I might have missed the summer here but they say September is the month for surf (before the ocean freezes :))
The old leach around the stairs trick got played on me.
Just Some fun photos from Batukaras 🙂 No more to say 🙂
Some pics from last weekends swell below. There’s supposed to be the biggest swell since 2013 hitting Indonesia over the weekend, should be interesting 🙂
Took the scooty for a trip to Watu Karung to have a coffee and look at the waves (Watu Karung is the spot for the surfers that’s on the pro tour (the wanna be pro tour), it’s a heavy barrel on a reef and we have some swell so thought it would be good to have a look). So we get there and there’s just one girl out there while the rest of the pro’s are sitting at the little warung having coffee contemplating about maybe going out 🙂 Then another girl paddles out and her first wave is a double barrel – we love watching the girls rip! After that the pro’s got their act together and made a move for the waves.
So we went on another sunset walk around midigama and this is what we found cheek it out !!!!
So here it is – my first gopro action 🙂
I’m glued to the computer watching the last event of the year for the women pro surfers as is’s on! Right now Round 4 – the worlds four top surfers are all ready for the quarter finals – I think they will run quarter finals tomorrow – waves looks amazing! Courney Conolouge just scored a 19.40 heat total – some amazing surfing happening!
Yesterday – talking about the labor day-Pax birthday week that we’ve both have off in October. Figured we’d do a roadie maybe up north somewhere. But then I’m not sure well I ended up booking tickets to Bali instead. It’s just for a week but still bikini surf and 5 dollar massages – here I come. It’s the most expensive tickets to Bali I’ve ever booked from here and also the shortest stay with only 8 nights but we’re off next Friday and I’m so happy!! I can’t wait for that heat to hit me when I step out of the plane, waking up somewhere in noisy Kuta complaining about how much things have changed since last time. Getting a bike and driving off to find some waves somewhere. Eat Sleep Surf on repeat.
The documentary on Stephanie Gilmore, five times world champion is finally screening in Australia next month, in Sydney on the 23 & 24th of October, have a look at the website for more dates. Steph won her first world title at the age of 17 and the director Ava Warbrick has followed her since her third world title win. I love Stephs surfing style and that she’s into her retro boards, there’s so many cool clips of her riding that single fin out there. Stoked to get to see this docu at the cinema next month 🙂
We’re back on the road, or at least we where for the weekend. Drove down to Gerringong on Friday night, Pax watched the game (uhmmm the AFN, NRL or whatever it’s called) at the bowling club while I lost my money at the pookies. Saturday morning we headed for Bendalong and Green Island hoping the waves where gonna be alright. Uhhh not quite was just a 30 minute non stop paddle, every time I stopped paddling it was like the island was moving forward.
Been trying to watch the Swatch Pro event online but I’m in the wrong time zone but this morning I watch the final on my phone while getting in to work. Stephanie Gilmore against my favorite Sally Fitzgibbons in the womens final. Steph just surfed so well and won with a 19.50 total and her 10 scoring wave was just so freaking good so well done Steph 🙂 Anyways Sallys good result put her ranking up so she’s currently number one in the world! I hope I’ll be able to watch the rest of the tour as it heads to Europe, 3 events left this year. Go Sally!
Was a long weekend for us since I had the Monday off and Pax usually doesn’t work Mondays so – Hello to you again Crescent Head! Crescent Head is a sleepy beach town five hours drive north from us (depending on traffic ;)), somewhere in the middle of us and the Gold Coast maybe. I’ve been there a few times before but this is the first time I actually surfed the main point. It’s been so overcrowded when we’ve been there before and there’s so many good options for uncrowded waves in the area but Saturday morning I had some super duper fun waves again (hello right hand point break I missed you). Then the swell and some stormy weather rolled in and made a big mess of the ocean so we resorted to the pub for pool, drinks and a few games of shit head.
Our on the road home.
Stopping in Forster on our way back to Sydney.
Cold pressed juice stop – so nice when you find some good food on the road.
Boomerang Beach outside Forster, we need to do some exploring around this area to.
Got off the plane on Sunday night in Sydney and went to pick up our boards. Pax thought the board bag looked a bit dusty and it did have a few holes in it so we opened it up to have a peek. Just to find out both surf boards were snapped in half! How is it even possible? We’ve seen from the plane window when they offloaded our luggage placing the board bag sideways in the carriage with one part sticking out so they must have driven into something to small, smashing the part sticking out to break I reckon. Anyways we headed over to the Qantas service desk just to be met by a grumpy lady that just said that since it’s fragile baggage Qantas takes no responsibility and we’ve signed the waiver and so on.
I’ve traveled so much with surf boards on different airlines for the last few years and a ding or a dent yeah that’s fair enough – it happens, but both our boards snapped in half?! That’s just not cool especially coming from an Australian airline that you would assume would be used to handling surf boards. We’ve sent a complaint through to the Qantas baggage claims so let’s see what they say. On the bright side I’m glad it happened on the way back and I guess we need to shop for new boards now.
Not really sure what is happening with time but it’s going quick, and it’s getting so dark now. To dark to surf in the morning and you have to be super quick to sneak in an after work surf in the week. We’re changing the clocks here in Sydney on Sunday so it will be better in the mornings for a bit. But we can really tell we’re going into winter over here. We had a few waves on Sunday, yours truly thought it looked to windy and crappy but had some fun once I got in. Anyways almost weekend again, we’re going north for a change, to Forster to cheer on Snoop in a triathlon and hopefully some waves and maybe some pies to, who knows!