I really like stories about people living their passions, doing this life thing their own way and here is one more for the collection. If you have 20 minutes or so to spare check out the documentary of Liz Clark produced by Patagonia, it’s about her travels sailing around the world chasing waves and solitude. Trying to live a life in harmony with nature. Be inspired. I am.
Tag Archives: Swell
When the swell comes to town
I stay on the beach with the camera 🙂 It’s amazing to watch though, biggest I’ve seen in a long long time.
Big Waves & Sunset
Sunset bombs
Some pics from last weekends swell below. There’s supposed to be the biggest swell since 2013 hitting Indonesia over the weekend, should be interesting 🙂 Â
Coffee in Watu Karung – the paradise?
Took the scooty for a trip to Watu Karung to have  a coffee and look at the waves (Watu Karung is the spot for the surfers that’s on the pro tour (the wanna be pro tour), it’s a heavy barrel on a reef and we have some swell so thought it would be good to have a look). So we get there and there’s just one girl out there while the rest of the pro’s are sitting at the little warung having coffee contemplating about maybe going out 🙂 Then another girl paddles out and her first wave is a double barrel – we love watching the girls rip! After that the pro’s got their act together and made a move for the waves.Â
And we had swell
Eating. Sleeping. Watching to many episodes of Games of Thrones. Drinking instant coffees. Surfing some fun and uncrowded waves. Eating cake. Just one more episode. A sunset surf? Another day in paradise.
Day off in Midigama
After 17 days straight in the surf the swell was a bit to messy this morning and the current looked just as strong as yesterday so we’ve been out and about in the village, just relaxing and playing a few games of Yatzy or as our German friends say Kniffel. My arms and shoulders are quite happy they got the day off to but seriously we’ve been so lucky with the waves so far – can’t remember if I had these many consecutive days of surfing ever?
Surf looks nice on the pic but it was fat, big, messy and a strong current on top of that Making new friends – as a tourist you’re every street dogs best friend – they follow you around anywhere.