Hello summer time, I’ve been waiting for you, yep I’m looking straight at yoooou! Thank you for bringing on the heat, yes have a look at me putting that seal skin some people call a wet suit way back in the closet. & even better I’m so stoked about this daylight hell yeah so I can squeeze in a surf before work and another one after if i feel like it. I’m pretty excited about the next months which is quite an understatement.
Crisp clean waves from a few weeks ago. I have logistic issues with the log he he, I almost knocked some poor people over the other day trying to walk to the beach. Other than that just pure magic. Me & Pax took turns with the log and water housing, I think I got the money shot of Pax above hey, enjoy 🙂
We just went to have a little peak at this second hand log and I didn’t like it so just stopped by pcc for a peak? Yeah that’s it just a peak. Hmmm this piece of art was sitting in the rack. Then she was calling my name ha ha take me hoooome, take me to the ocean. 9″2 Indonesian coca cola with a flower inlay. She’s to big to fit in the garage standing up and I need straps to carry her to the beach 🙂
It’s that time a year again 🙂
I stay on the beach with the camera 🙂 It’s amazing to watch though, biggest I’ve seen in a long long time.
Weekend crowds at my local beach. We escape it all by going south. South is always a good idea, but still all the weekenders was sharing the one break that was working within an hours drive. It’s alright the crowd is mellow, lot’s of surfing dads, mums and grommits. Just smiles and fun. Monday we had the wind coming for a short visit, it happens. Tuesday I wake up early, have my coffee giving the early dawn patrolers some time to get to work. I walk down the beach and my favorite peak has no one on it. No one. For maybe 30 minutes it’s just me and magic. It’s so clean and clear – we did not have any rain for a long time. I can see all the fishes swimming beneath me. Waves are small but fun, I can see straight through them when I’m playing on the face. I love this time of year it’s getting crisp, no wind and the water is still warm(ish).
Photos from yesterday in Cronulla. Fun waves for everyone. It’s school holidays so the grommits are having a blast. I’m just playing with our newish 400mm lens. Trying to recover from a sore neck. Again. Oh well.
Took out a demo board from PCC for a surf this morning, was it to much fun? Wondering if I need to keep it.
But surf this morning was heaps of fun 🙂 Little clean peaks all along the beach how I’ve missed you guys! The sky is grey but it keeps the wind away so I might have to go for a second session. I had one peak pretty much to myself for two hours – he he love days like this, just fun and easy 🙂
When the swell gave you a sore neck leaving you stuck on the beach for days. When you’ve made non ocean related plans for the next four days (seriously who does that). When your next trip to Indonesia is months away. Yep that’s when the surf itch kicks in – you all know the feeling right 🙂
It’s good to be me! Surf has been heaps fun last few days and the water is still so warm. I’m feeling very lucky, no need to travel anywhere at the moment, maybe few hours down the coast for the weekend to escape the crowd. I thought the swell would have dropped off but there’s just small pulses coming so it’s just fun 2-3 feet waves on the beaches!
Yes! Just watched Sally Fitzgibbons take out Steph in the final of the Surfest Newcastle. Is 2016 going to be Sallys year? I’ve got my fingers crossed 🙂 Go Sally! Looking forward to first event of the year, wishing I had time to head up to the Gold Coast.
So my last two months or so on the road was on my own. I always think that I’d rather travel on my own than not at all so I guess for me the choice has always been easy. And I’ve done it so many times now. I have friends spread out everywhere and alone is never really alone. But some people you meet has this misconception of solo travelers like the German guys telling me “oh you travel alone you must read so many books” or “but you must know someone there (when I talk about where I’m going next)”. Well I read because I like it no matter if I’m on my own or not. Alone does not equal lonely. I’m lucky because I don’t mind my own company but you meet people all the time when you travel. You don’t have to sit on your own reading unless you want to and you can go somewhere you don’t know people because everyone wants to be your friend.
It’s also nice to be your own person, don’t get me wrong I love traveling with Pax or with friends. It’s amazing to have someone to share all those moments with or to have someone just keep an eye on your bag when you have to go to the toilet at that busy train station. But traveling solo makes you step out of that comfort zone more and people treat you differently to. Suddenly you’re not just 50% of that couple or one of those European girls or whatever your crew happens to be. You get to be 100% yourself and all those connections you make are yours. And the last two months I’ve made a lot of those and I’m so stoked about it, especially all the cool solo female travelers that’s come my way and I know we’ll share travels together again. Lots of love 🙂
After nine months or so on the road I’m back in Sydney! Went for a walk to check the waves this morning and omg it’s more crowded than Kuta Beach or any Bali surf break for what looks like really average close out waves. The difference is that the surfers here can actually surf, ha ha 🙂 I totally forgot about the weekend crowd though, there’s like a million of people in the water. But the ocean looks amazing, the water is so clear! No more murky river mouths for me. Also enjoying flushing toilets and hot showers, ha ha, it’s good to be back for summer, hope it heats up a bit to!
I’m back in Indonesia (oh ja again) and last week me and this super awesome fantastic cool crew went for a surf trip to the jungle. Three girls, one rasta man, tropical waters, empty reef breaks, fun peeling waves with just us on it, camping in the jungle, trips to magic caves, nasi gorengs, mangoes and bloody white coffee. I’m so happy and all surfed out but ready to go back again ha ha. I’ve had the time of my life 🙂 Thank you Ulrikke, Silke and Maruf, you’re all legends let’s do it all again soon!
Swedish internet is so fast and I have a bit of time on my hands so… does the quiver need an update? To many good looking boards out there 🙂
Some wind. Some waves. Quick sunset session in Sandhamn last night before it got to cold in a 2/3 wettie 🙂