Friday after work we went to pick up this little thing from our friends at PCC surfboards in Cronulla.
I’m soooo stoked, finally I have a surfboard again and she’s custom made just for me. So Saturday morning we packed the van up and headed for the coast – me pretty keen to find some waves to say the least. Brought some friends along and decided to paddle out at the beach break in Bendalong, it was a bit windy and bumpy but fun. Spent the rest of the weekend around Green Island, surfing, eating, chilling and that – such a hard life 🙂
“I’ve seen it/them/that somewhere around here” – Pax is making coffee for the weekend crew.
Yesterday – talking about the labor day-Pax birthday week that we’ve both have off in October. Figured we’d do a roadie maybe up north somewhere. But then I’m not sure well I ended up booking tickets to Bali instead. It’s just for a week but still bikini surf and 5 dollar massages – here I come. It’s the most expensive tickets to Bali I’ve ever booked from here and also the shortest stay with only 8 nights but we’re off next Friday and I’m so happy!! I can’t wait for that heat to hit me when I step out of the plane, waking up somewhere in noisy Kuta complaining about how much things have changed since last time. Getting a bike and driving off to find some waves somewhere. Eat Sleep Surf on repeat.
The documentary on Stephanie Gilmore, five times world champion is finally screening in Australia next month, in Sydney on the 23 & 24th of October, have a look at the website for more dates. Steph won her first world title at the age of 17 and the director Ava Warbrick has followed her since her third world title win. I love Stephs surfing style and that she’s into her retro boards, there’s so many cool clips of her riding that single fin out there. Stoked to get to see this docu at the cinema next month 🙂
Been trying to watch the Swatch Pro event online but I’m in the wrong time zone but this morning I watch the final on my phone while getting in to work. Stephanie Gilmore against my favorite Sally Fitzgibbons in the womens final. Steph just surfed so well and won with a 19.50 total and her 10 scoring wave was just so freaking good so well done Steph 🙂 Anyways Sallys good result put her ranking up so she’s currently number one in the world! I hope I’ll be able to watch the rest of the tour as it heads to Europe, 3 events left this year. Go Sally!
I watched the documentary Fed Up last night, about how much sugar there’s in processed food today compared to 30 years ago. Most of our groceries comes from the fruit and veg section of the supermarket (I’ve been vegetarian since I was 15 and trying to stay away from dairy as much as possible these days) but still it’s so hard to avoid sugar – it’s everywhere and if something has a package there’s almost always some sugar hiding on the label in one way or the other.
In 1980, there were zero cases of childhood type 2 diabetes in the US. In 2010, there were 57,636. That is scary figures. More people die from obesity than malnutrition. It’s just sad to think about. One thing that I found specially shocking is the food served in the school cafeterias (again in the US) – it’s a 100% junk food with no nutritional value whatsoever. I really believe that food that was made in a factory aren’t that great to eat. Have a look for yourself.
How a beach can be owned by a private company itself… well anyways if you follow the beach as far north as you can from the south of cronulla you’ll get to Boat Harbour. That’s what we did on sunday after – deciding the surf was too small and full, going back home to pick up something someone forgot. Boat Harbour is a tiny community with a few small beach shacks that reminds me a bit of Christiania in Copenhagen but a bit more low key or maybe a lot. There’s no electricity and the people who live there’s pretty much off the grid I guess and I always find that so fascinating. Let me see where I can sign up for my own shipping container. Before they bulldoze it all away and build a business park.
Photos below I snaked from the internet.